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Lofoten in January: The Land of Two-Hour Sunrises

When I visited Reine and Svolvær in Norway’s Lofoten Islands back in 2013, I knew that the three days I had allotted weren’t anywhere near enough to do the place justice. I wasn’t sure when I’d ever get back — given the remoteness of Norway in relation to my home base of Australia — but…

The Best Ways Not to Drive Into a Norwegian Fjord

My recent travels spanned from New Zealand to the UK and involved me renting three cars in three different countries. One country was in the middle of summer; the others were in the depths of winter. Two countries drive on the left side of the road; one thought it would be different and drive on the right.…

How to Sleep Like a Baby in the Icehotel

Lapland seems to be chock full of snow hotels, and there is none better known than Sweden’s Icehotel. This hotel, built out of some 30,000m2 of snice (a special blend of snow, ice, and water that helps to insulate the hotel) and 1,000 tons of ice, is the 25th iteration of an idea that Yngve…

The Northern Lights: Photos vs. Reality

You’d be hard pressed finding someone who doesn’t have “see the who doesn’t have “see the northern lights”on their bucket list. I know it featured on mine for years, even though I’d never given much thought to how I would accomplish it. Because all of these people have, at some point, seen a photo of…

Snowmobiling into a Whiteout in the Lyngen Alps

A perfect morning dawned over Camp Tamok as I slowly wrestled out of my sleeping bag in the Sami lavvu I’d spent the night in. As we ate breakfast in a warm cabin, huskies from the nearby kennel barked at each other and got themselves excited for another day of sprinting through the Lyngen Alps.…

The Magic of Dogsledding in the Dark

“I wanna go fast! I wanna go fast!” I could almost hear the huskies chanting Ricky Bobby’s favourite line as they bounded across the pristine snow of the Lyngen Alps outside of Tromsø. They had rocketed off as soon as I’d let go of the brake, accelerating as fast as they could as snow appeared…

Snorkeling…in the Arctic…in WINTER?!

As I sat on the side of the RIB (rigid inflatable boat), looking up at the snow-coated mountains rising out of the sea all around me, I wondered what in the world I had been thinking. Surely I had experienced a moment of temporary madness when I had signed up to snorkel in the Lofoten…

This Texan Is Going to Lapland!

Last week, when I posted about how I quit my job to be closer to my family, I mentioned that I had a trip starting nine days after I arrived. This will be the longest, most epic trip of my five-month sojourn to Europe, and I know I will need a good portion of April,…

Braving the Arctic Wilds in Porjus

I am not a cold weather person. If the temperature gets down to 15C in Brisbane, I wear at least jeans and a jumper. In the dead of winter (as if that ever happens in Queensland), I can be found sitting on the couch wrapped in a very thick blanket. I shiver when I have…

The Northern Lights Apartments: A Home Away From Home

I don’t think I would have enjoyed my trip north of the Arctic Circle nearly as much if I hadn’t picked such a great place to stay. The Northern Lights Apartments, located about 500m down the road from the main town of Porjus, were a little oasis in an otherwise rather inhospitable environment. Their owner,…
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